Solo-- Alone

Sometimes cycling is about socializing, but most of the time it's about suffering... alone.

Every time I tell someone that I'm going to Italy to ride my bike, they ask me if I'm going with a group. When I tell them, no I'm just packing up my bike and riding around for three weeks, most times people can't believe it. For me, it's not hard to pack my bike and a carry-on bag, it's not hard for me to plan amazing cycling routes wherever I go, and for the most part it hasn't been too hard to spend three weeks basically alone. The joy of riding with an impromptu group that you come across is a big part of what I love about cycling. No matter the language barrier, the culture of cycling is, for me, universal. For everyone it's the same idea, it's simple. Put one pedal in front of the other, and repeat until you get back home. When you come across a group that will do that at the same pace as you, then you're onto something.
A lot of my rides here, and at home for that matter, are solo. Yes, sometimes I'll run into someone, sometimes I'll actually wake up early enough to get out with the group, but for the most part, cycling, as in training, is something that you have to do alone. Look at all the pros. They do the same thing. If you aren't willing to spend a lot of time by yourself, you can't be a strong cyclist. There is something about the silence as you pedal along that is, in fact, not at all silent. You hear the air, you hear the cars (unfortunately), you hear the people, you hear the dogs, you hear the wildlife, the waterfalls, the rushing streams, the breaking of waves, and sometimes you hear the rain (ok, you feel that too).
Today, cycling along my 100km ride, alone, I heard all those things (except the rain luckily). I did see some cyclists, all going the other way of course, but today I spent 3.5 hours alone. It's not the first time, it won't be the last. I rode for what felt like forever along the lake. It was beautiful but as much as I wasn't looking forward to climbing, the change of pace was greatly anticipated. Once I finally turned off, the road went up. Today's ride did not feature any of the super hard climbs like I did on Thursday (Piancavallo, but not the famous one) and Friday (Mottarone). Instead it was 25km gradually up and up and up through Valle Cannobina. It was a beautiful road, wide in spots, really narrow in others. There were some switchbacks, a few steep spots, but mostly a gradual climb through Alpine villages, each ticking off another block of kilometers.

Finally I got to the top. My Garmin told me but so did ARRIVO painted in giant letters across the road. The was the decent. Just as long, but wider roads. It started off pretty technical and then I got stuck behind a Swiss family in the Cintron. Sometime the cars get stuck behind the cyclists, but on mountain roads, the cyclist can always go faster. Once I overtook them, I was free. I reached another town, the road leveled out, but I knew the best part was coming. The highlight of the entire descent was the last bit. It was wide, sweeping and there were a few awesome tunnels. When they are lit, these tunnels are the best. Screaming downhill on perfect pavement through a tunnel, exempt from all wind except that which you are creating, is the most awesome thing ever!
Once I got to the bottom, I knew that it was about 25 miles back to home, ever so slightly downhill. What I didn't anticipate was the massive headwind cutting through the lake valley. It was brutal! I kept thinking of Jens Voigt, saying Shut Up Legs. Luckily I knew that once I got to Mergozzo, about eight miles out of Verbania, there would be a gelato spot and a great view of Lago Mergozzo to take in. I then road straight back to Pallanza, right to my apartment and made myself a huge lunch. That was four hours ago. I'm hungry again.
So, now after eating in the past few nights, I think I'm going to run down to the lakefront to find somewhere to eat. Someone's gotta have some gnocchi around here. I'll post this after dinner, but hopefully it's a good one because I'm running on empty. I'll sleep well tonight and tomorrow has to be a real recovery ride. My legs are shot!
PS dinner was actually very good. Red Potato Gnocchi with Fresh Tomatoes and Shaved Baked Ricotta. Definitely the best food I've had here. Place was packed with Italians and the pizza looked great. I'll have to go back on Tuesday night.