Lunch

The great part about having this apartment is that I can cook basic things for myself. It's a great way to save a lot of money, plus it's very enjoyable. I'm not going to start cooking pasta or anything, but being within a few steps of the Mercato Centrale, it's very enjoyable to shop for ingredients to make salads and sandwiches in the middle of the day. Plus it makes me feel like I live here. This was today's lunch:

Bruschetta of pomodorini and olives with smoked scamorza and rucola salad

Also, I wish the photos could be formatted better (centering, size) but the editor on Blogger's site doesn't upload photos from iPad though the app does but doesn't allow formatting. Furthermore, once I upload the photos I can try to edit them on the site, but the scrolling doesn't work on the editor so it's really spotty. I like Google products in general but they have a lot of kinks to work out with Blogger. Kinda like Garmin Connect except Garmin Connect can win an award for sucking. Another company that has to get their shit together or just give up and let the Garmin work directly with Strava and the Strava app. 

One for my sister.

Firenze is a great city to spend your money on cloths and fashion goods. Leather work is a traditional trade in Firenze and thusly a large part of the market is leather jackets and bags, and then there are the shoemakers. Since I'll be riding the Gran Fondo Mondiale Toscana Franco Ballerini tomorrow, I decided today would be a good day to spend walking around the city to shop for a few things.

I first made my way through the San Lorenzo Market, which is an historic open air market of mostly leather goods. This is where last year my sister and I spent too much time and too much money. After running into a few vendors that we spent lots of time talking with last year, I ended up coming home with the leather jacket I mentioned earlier and directions to a "really cool" vintage store just around the corner. It was there that I immediately recognized these insane prints and "color stories" as my sister calls them of Emilio Pucci, my sister's favorite Italian designer. I snapped some photos and sent them to my sister right away (without thinking that it was like 7am back at home). I figured she'd be crunching numbers in her bank account to figure out how I could bring this dress home for her.

During the following hours, I walked back and forth around the area between the Duomo and Piazza della Signoria, going in an out of shops looking for a pair of shoes and a high neck button up cardigan. If only my sister were here, I probably would have made my mind up about the shoes a lot earlier. I was torn between two handmade shoe shops that were separated by only block or so. I went back and forth a few times, then I walked back to the apartment for lunch... and then walked all the way back again. Luckily in the process I met some very helpful (and patient) shoe sellers (one was the owner of the company, in fact). Remember when I said that the airport check-in clerk helped extend the budget for my trip? Here's what he bought me:

Important to note that I wouldn't fold my jeans up, just want to show the shoes.

Also, here is a quick pic of the jacket. Sorry to anyone from my cycling circle that is reading today, but my sister will really enjoy this instead of my carrying on about some awesome climb or a bike race. There will be much more of that later. In fact, tomorrow is the Gran Fondo and I'm sure that will be an epic adventure. Ciao for now.

Racing... a tiny dog.

Firenze is unique, at least compared to what I'm used to with US east coast cities, in that it is surrounded by hills. I mean, big hills. If we had them in Hunterdon County, we'd call them mountains. but here, mountains are a whole different thing. In fact, I would venture to say that Italy has two types of cities/ town: the ones in the valley surrounded by hills or the ones that sit on top of said hills. There isn't much flat ground here. Due to this, things "open up" pretty quickly. Five miles out of the city to the east and you're on goat path type roads, which require diligent route planning to avoid ones that quite honestly are.

Today's ride took me east of Firenze into said hills. After escaping the city, dodging mopeds, pedestrians and FIATs on a network of one-way roads that change direction at every intersection (it makes navigating pretty insane if you don't have a good sense of direction), I made a right turn and immediately started climbing. Steady, big ring climbing on a road barely wide enough for a single car with ten foot stone walls on each side. Now if I were in the US and a car got behind me on a road like this I'd be freaking out. But in Italy, you just ride along. I mean, if you're traveling on a road like this, how fast do you expect to go, anyhow? And where are you going?!

After a coupe of turns it really started ramping up. The views of the Arno River were peaking through the olive trees here and there. Finally after about 2.5 miles at 5% average, I turned right into a quaint town. As I got through town it really started ramping up. 10-15% at times. And then there is this dog. Tiny little thing, harmless, but a runner non-the-less. Just as it got steepest, of course, this little thing takes off after me.This is the point in the Strava course where my hear rate hits 203 bpm. I felt like Froome or Nibali was attacking and I had to go with him. Tempo changes are hard on climbs over 3 miles. 

Aside from that, the first part of my ride was highlighted by some amazing scenery, of course some more climbing, and finally an awesome descent on a wide Strada Provinciale back down into Firenze. 

Once I got back into town, I ran upstairs (3rd floor walk up a few times a day counts as a Cat 4 climb in my book, especially with groceries), and grabbed that leftover slice of pizza (see photo below) and some stuff from the fridge for a picnic on the Arno outside the Uffizi Gallery. Seeing all the people on line at the museum and Duomo really made me appreciate the freedom that a bike allows me. I'm gaining a whole new perspective on this city.

After lunch, I found my way to the start of the World circuit. Again, circumnavigating the endless network of one-way streets, I finally got to the base of the Fiesole climb. Practically every paved road on the World course has been resurfaced. It's amazing! If you cycling fans reading take one thing from this post, here it is; my insight into the Worlds circuit:

The Fiesole climb is not that hard...if you do it once. Keep in mind, the pro men do it ten times, plus they ride 100km before getting there. The thing is, it's hard, but not hard enough for the racing to be conservative and boring. It is very conducive to high intensity attacks. The steepest part is just at the top as you get into town, but it's a short section that you can sprint over. Then it's a quick left hander and you're plummeting downhill on a twist fast, freshly paved descent (yes, it's paradise). Look for attacks to go there, because if you get a gap, it might be easier to hold it in a break on the twisty road downwards. I think I might have hit the brakes once or twice but there is no doubt that the guys at the front, on closed roads are going to be taking this descent at insane speed. 

The real leg killer is Via Salviatti, which kicks up to 19%. I missed the damn turn and had to turn around and wait at the light. Starting it from a stand-still sucks! However, it's hard regardless. It would be a really exciting place to watch, as more than likely the race winning move could take place there. Of course, the organizers know that, so they've set up a standing room only area on the short climb that is exclusively available to three-day-pass purchasers. But that's ok, I think the real party is going to be on the Fiesole climb, and that's where I hope to go. 

Ok, well, that's probably more than anyone wants to read and I'm tired. Though there are endless observations, about cycling, the race, the food, Italy in general, I'll save them for another night. And if you're wondering why there are no photos today, the riding was so much fun I didn't want to stop and take a photo despite the stunning scenery. But it's only day two. 

Napoli-style pizza at Osteria Cento Poveri Pizzeria 

Day One

 

 

Today I went for my first ride in Italy. It was nothing too exciting, just a "River Road" ride out to this little town east of Firenze. Apparently it's some type of amateur TT course, but the pavement was so much smoother than River Road at home. The same wind was there though. A light tailwind heading out and a headwind coming back. After "completing" the course, I had a few hours of daylight to do a little exploring.

 

I failed to mention that as I was leaving for the ride, my Garmin 810 decided to bail and I had to do a reset, loosing all my maps and profiles. After reprogramming the Activity Pages on the side of the road (I didn't feel like carrying my bike back up the third story walk-up) I was off, senza mapa. Luckily I reviewed the simple route before hand, and it was a ride along the river, how much could go wrong?

 

The traffic started off heavy but once I was two or three miles out of Firenze, it was pretty open. One thing is for sure, drivers here are used to cyclist and they don't yell and scream, flip you off, buzz you, etc. Even the bus drivers allow four feet passing, voluntarily!! And when a bus is stopped on the side of the road, they actually put their blinker on and merge safely. Septa's got a thing or two to learn. I generally feel very safe on the road. The only thing to get used to is the scooters, and they're everywhere.

 

Since my ride wasn't so scenic, I decided to roam around the city via bici. The roads that are paved are smooth, but the ancient paving block roads are a whole 'nother story. Getting that shook around took a little getting used to, especially with my shoulders sore from lugging my bike bag around. I kept thinking, "What the hell is Paris-Roubaix like, then?"

 

Aside from cycling, I did some grocery shopping in the Mercato Centrale, tasted some olive oil and balsamic (which resulted in my buying some for my salad), and made myself a nice sandwich of olives, smoked scamorza, and pesto, and I bought myself an awesome black leather bomber jacket from Massimo to compliment the brown jacket I bought last year. Color variety is very important, just ask my sister. I guess that's the reason she has like four dressers/ wardrobes?

 

Anyway, I'm getting off track. I'm about to shower and head to dinner. I think some pizza is on deck for tonight. As I get ready to go, with the window open in my little apartment, I can overhear some children yelling at a soccer game on TV. I feel right at home with the family next door yelling at each other and the smell of someone's dinner (something with lots of garlic) lingering in the air. Ok, I'm getting hungry. Tomorrow I head to the hills!

 

Arrivo!

Day one in Italy complete. And it was a taxing one. That bike bag is heavy, especially because my awesome little studio apartment is a third story walk-up!

 

The trip started off splendidly. Upon check-in at Philadelphia International Airport, I was expecting to have to pay $200 to get my bike on the plane. When asked by the check-in clerk what was in my gigantic black bag and I replied, "my bicycle", he said, "Ok, I'm not even going to charge you for that today, that's just the kind of mood I'm in." AWESOME!

 

So, when I arrived in Roma this morning, I figured I'd just grab my bag and be on my way. Unfortunately, they lost a bunch of bags from my flight and I spent about a half hour waiting on line and worrying when my bag didn't show up. Luckily, the gentleman pointed me to a door with a sign that I clearly missed that said "Oversized Baggage" and sure enough, my bike was sitting right there. Phew!! I do feel bad for the other new "friends" that I met in the lost luggage line, but I guess somewhat selfishly I was very relieved to see my bike bag in Roma.

 

Interesting, as compared to US Customs, EU Customs is a walk in the park. They don't even stamp your passport, nothing. They have a guy in a booth, you hold up your passport and he waves you through. No questions asked, no security check points, etc. I felt like it was 1970 security.

 

The rest of my day consisted of me trying to catch up on some sleep, running some errands, etc. boring stuff, but it's gotta get done in order to make the rest of the trip a success. I did eat some amazing food at my favorite little restaurant here, Osteria Cento Poveri. I was so hungry, I didn't get a pic of the food once it came out, but that's ok, I'm sure I'll eat the same thing there again some time in the next two weeks.

 

 

Tomorrow, it's off to buy a jacket, buy some produce and cheese at the Mercato Centrale, and going for a short-ish ride.

 

Well, that's all for now. I'm exhausted. Hoping to beat the jet lag in a day because that Granfondo is fast approaching. Buona notte!

 

 

The beauty of being lost.

I thought that this article, published on VeloNews this morning was applicable to my philosophy for the trip. Very good timing, well written and a nice bit of inspiration.

"...behind every blind bend a panorama of the unknown."